Located in the lower Taravo Valley, at an altitude of 407 meters, the hamlet of Calvesi (or Calvese), now part of the municipality of Sollacaro, embodies a crucial chapter of Corsican history. Its name, Suddacarò-Calvesi, evokes an ancient settlement, marked by prehistoric sites (such as Filitosa) and a strong medieval presence linked to the powerful Istria family.
As early as the 12th century, the Genoese Luciano de Franchi built a fortified castle (Castellu d’Istria) on a granite spur overlooking the village, at an altitude of 780 meters. This "eagle's nest" controlled the Cilaccia Pass (583 m), a strategic crossing point between the coves of Porto-Pollo and Propriano. Over the centuries, this fortress became the heart of the stronghold of Istria, integrating the towns of Valle d'Istria (Sollacaro, Calvesi, Casalabriva and Olmeto).
The Lords of Istria: A Remarkable Dynasty
The Istria family, descended from Corsican nobility allied at times with the Aragonese, at others with the Genoese, profoundly marked the region. Among its most illustrious members:
Vincentello d'Istria (1380–1434):
Viceroy of Corsica under the authority of the King of Aragon, he rebuilt and reinforced the castle of Istria at the beginning of the 15th century. His ambition? To unify Corsica under a single banner, free from Genoese influence. Proclaimed Count of Corsica in 1410, then Viceroy in 1418, he was finally captured and beheaded in Genoa in 1434. His military and political actions made him one of the most emblematic figures in Corsican medieval history.
Frederick of Istria (Federico):
In the 16th century, he restored the castle keep in 1571, as evidenced by the lintel engraved with his name and surmounted by a pink stone tympanum. An inscription, recorded by Prosper Mérimée in 1839, still confirms the d'Istria family's ownership of this site today.
Sampiero Corso (1564):
The famous liberator of Corsica, returning from exile, seized the castle of Istria as soon as he landed in Valinco, marking a turning point in the struggle against the Genoese.
A preserved architectural heritage
Istria Castle:
Although partially in ruins, it retains sections of walls, a cistern, and remains of its machicolations and crenellations. Classified as a historical monument, it offers an exceptional panorama of the Taravo valley and the Gulf of Valinco.
The lord's towers:
In the Torri de Sollacaro district, the Federico d’Istria tower (1571) stands out with its machicolated breach and its engraved granite lintel. A second tower, now incorporated into dwellings, recalls the defensive importance of the village.
The Saint-Albert church in Calvesi:
History and origins
Located in the lower Taravo Valley, the parish of Saint-Albert de Calvesi lies within a territory marked by ancient settlement, dating back to prehistory and antiquity. The ancient city of Pauca, mentioned by the Greek geographer Ptolemy in the 2nd century, corresponds to the present-day port of Propriano. The Christianization of the Gulf of Valinco and the Taravo Valley began as early as the 6th century, with sanctuaries such as Santa Maria di Taravo, linked to the Genoese abbey of San Benigno.
The villages of Sollacaro and Calvesi developed from the late 14th century onwards, on defensive sites controlling the ancient routes leading to the Cilaccia Pass. Calvesi, part of the fiefdom of Istria, formed part of the pieve of Valle d'Istria, which also included Casalabriva and Olmeto.
Saint Albert's Church: A Religious and Architectural Heritage
The current parish church, dedicated to Saint Albert the Great since the 16th century, occupies a site steeped in history. Originally, it was a small rectangular building, described in 1587 by Bishop Mascardi as a modest structure with unplastered walls and an earthen floor. Its dedication may have been inspired by Saint Trapani (12th century), although local tradition associates it with Albert of Cologne (1193–1280), a scholastic philosopher and teacher of Saint Thomas Aquinas. A relic attributed to him, as well as a 17th-century white marble statuette, are kept in the church.
In the 18th century, the building was enlarged thanks to the generosity of Pietro Félice Casabianca, who donated the land necessary for the extension of the nave. The church was then enriched with a side chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, adorned with a gold leaf statue and a pictorial decoration attributed to the artist Raffali. The current bell tower, built in 1816 and completed in the 20th century, completes the ensemble.
Notable features
Relic of Saint Albert: Encased in a gilded wooden case (17th century).
White marble statue of Saint Albert (17th century), listed as a historical monument.
Frescoes and decorations: Paintings on the sacristy vault and gold leaf statues (late 18th century).
Penitents' confraternity: Organized in honor of Saint Albert, it bears witness to local religious life.
Protection and recognition
The former parish church of Calvesi (cadastral reference C 407) has been listed as a historical monument since May 10, 2012, due to its heritage value and its role in the religious history of the region.
Source: Adapted from the work of Joseph Cesari (2004) and the archives of listed heritage sites.
A land of legends and culture
James Boswell and Pascal Paoli:
In November 1765, the Scottish traveler James Boswell stayed in Sollacaro, where he met Pascal Paoli, a major figure in Corsican independence. Their meeting, recorded in Boswell's writings, illustrates the strategic importance of the region.
Alexandre Dumas :
The famous writer took inspiration from these places for his novel "Les Frères Corses", further anchoring Sollacaro and Calvesi in the literary imagination.
A population deeply rooted in its territory:
In the 18th century, Calvesi had 220 inhabitants (compared to 137 in 1726). The granite houses, the centuries-old olive trees, the vineyards and the orchards bear witness to a rural life that is still vibrant, between tradition and modernity.
A must-see:
- The ruins of Istria Castle (accessible via a footpath from Sollacaro).
- The medieval towers of the Torri district.
- The Church of Saint Albert and its 19th-century bell tower.
- The prehistoric site of Filitosa (nearby), a listed historical monument.
- The Cilaccia Pass, offering breathtaking views of the Valinco valley.
Practical information
Localisation: See Calvesi and Sollacaro in Google Maps
Access: From the N196, take the road leading to the Cilaccia Pass (583 m).
Tip: Explore the village on foot to discover its cobbled streets, granite houses, and historic fountains.
Sources: Chronicles of Giovanni Della Grossa, works of Prosper Mérimée (1839), Corsican heritage archives, Sollacaro town hall website. Illustrations by Gemini IA.
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